• 2903 Polymarine PVC primer and cleaner
• 3026 Polymarine two part PVC adhesive
• Paint brush (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
• Lint free cloth
• PVC material
• Masking tape
• Smoother (for rubbing down)
Before you start any gluing please note:- your workplace needs to be well ventilated, warm and dry. If the air is too humid don’t try to use the adhesive as it will bloom. Do not use a gas fire or naked flame heat source as the solvents are highly flammable. Do not use the adhesive if it has been mixed for more than 4 hours.
Mix adhesive with Curative at the ratio of 25:1
The Curative supplied is in ratio with the adhesive, so half the curative and half the tin will also be 25:1
REPAIRING A HOLE:
If the damage to your tube is more than 75mm in any direction an ‘inside patch’ needs to be applied. The procedure is the same as for an Outside Patch but is made more difficult because you are working on the inside of the tube.
1. Mark out and cut your material to size. This should be big enough to cover the damage plus 30mm on every side. Make sure that all the corners are rounded.
2. Using your cloth wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the 2903 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off and wipe over again. The surface should become tacky. Allow to flash off.
3. Mix half of the adhesive & cure (3026 two part adhesive) as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surfaces thinly, the surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.
4. Brush on a second coat of adhesive to both surfaces. With the inside patch lay a piece of polythene onto the adhesive, so it can be rolled up and put through the hole ( this will stop it sticking in the wrong place ). Place inside the tube and put into position, remove polythene. Work one side down with your smoother, pressing hard, then work the other side. Work from the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Please note:- the adhesive is a contact type, as soon as it touches the other surface it will stick. Make sure that the patch is in the correct position before the surfaces come into contact.
5. Leave to dry for at least six hours.
6. When dry, pump up the chamber and check for air leaks. The inside patch should be air tight.
7. Prepare the outside of the tube and your outside patch. Using masking tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch in the material, will ensure adhesive will not overlap.
8. Mix rest of adhesive with cure. Wipe fabric surface with the solvent, second wipe the solvent ‘till the fabric becomes sticky / slimy – at which time apply first thin layer of adhesive, leave for 30 minutes, apply second thin coat of adhesive.
9. Bring surfaces together after about 5 mins whilst still tacky. Rub down from the centre of patch outwards with your smoother. Check that all the edges are stuck down. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Remove the tape and rub off any excess adhesive. If the adhesive is left on it will turn brown.
10. If the adhesive has flashed off and it’s not sticking correctly, gently warm the area with a hair drier or a hot air gun and push down with your smoother.
11. Leave to dry for at least six hours
before putting pressure in the tube.
Full cure 48 hours.
Maximum Bond Strength 7 days.
PVC PATCHES are applied as the previous instructions.
RUBBER PATCHES and other accessories made from “rubber” type materials can be stuck to PVC fabric and tubes as long as they are ‘Primed First’ with Hypalon Adhesive.
Note: PVC Adhesive does NOT stick to Rubber.
PVC Adhesive DOES stick to Hypalon Adhesive.
Hypalon Adhesive DOES stick to Rubber.
Simply priming the rubber components with Hypalon Adhesive will then allow a successful bond with PVC adhesive.
Method: First abrade surface of the rubber component, then clean and coat with a thin layer of Hypalon adhesive (2990) as a primer. After priming, the PVC Adhesive is used as instructions above.