This is a unique collection, repair & delivery service available throughout the UK mainland for all makes of inflatable boats (not RIBS)*.

How does it work?
On an agreed day we deliver to you a heavy duty carrying bag into which you stow your dinghy. The delivery driver signs for and takes the dinghy back to his depot for onward delivery to our workshops. Here our experienced and fully trained (Avon & Zodiac certificated) staff undertake the work previously agreed with you and sends your repaired and warranted dinghy back to you.

What does it cost?
For an initial quotation you may either:
a) Telephone (01492 583322) and describe the fault.
b) E – mail a description of the fault & send pictures if possible.
c) Write to us with details and again pictures where appropriate.
d) Use the Contact Us form, giving as much detail as you can.
e) Send us the boat and we will undertake a full test to ascertain required remedial work. The test cost £35.25 for boats up to 3 mtrs or £47.00 for boats over 3 mtrs.

There are set prices for replacement valves. Avon type A7, B7 or C7 valves £48.50 per valve fitted. Flush fit style valves £32.50 per valve fitted.

We can undertake a basic valletting service @ £30.00 for up to a 3 mtr boat or £43.50 for over 3 mtrs.

The collection and re-delivery service costs £49.50 for boats up to 3 mtrs or £62.30 for boats over 3 mtrs.

All prices for this repair service shown above include vat.

* RIBs can be repaired but need to be delivered or collected on a road trailer by pre arrangement.

It is very important to use the correct adhesive for the material. There are two main types of material used in the manufacture of inflatable boats.

1. Hypalon:- this is a rubber/neoprene material
2. PVC:- used in most budget priced boats.

There are several tests to check.

• If you can see the inside of the tube, through the valve, Hypalon is a dark grey or black on the inside. PVC is the same colour on both sides.
• Sand the material. Hypalon will matt down and produce a dust. PVC will just scratch, There will be no difference in colour.
• Wipe over with MEK or Acetone. Hypalon will leave an oxidization and maybe some colour on the cloth. The material will not be affected. For PVC you will have some colour on the cloth but, the surface of the material will feel tacky.

It is important to use the correct solvent on the solvent test.

The rubber pads supplied with the Weaver Snap Davit kit have already been pre-sanded ready for bonding to a Hypalon dinghy. To enable them to be bonded to a PVC dinghy a priming coat of Hypalon adhesive is necessary. Our recommended procedure is described here.

MATERIALS NEEDED

• 1x 70ml tube Polymarine 2990 HYPALON ADHESIVE
• 1 x 50ml2903 PVC PRIMER AND CLEANER
• 1 x 250ml PVC 3026 2 PART ADHESIVE
• SMALL GLASS OR METAL CONTAINER
• PAINT BRUSH CUT DOWN TO 20-25MM STUBBLE
• LINT FREE CLOTH
• PVC MATERIAL
• MASKING TAPE
• POLYTHENE
• KNIFE HANDLE OR ROUNDED PIECE OF HARDWOOD

BEFORE YOU START ANY GLUEING PLEASE NOTE

YOU WORK PLACE NEEDS TO BE WELL VENTILATED, WARM AND DRY. IF THE AIR IS HUMID DON'T TRY TO USE THE ADHESIVE AS IT WILL BLOOM. HYGRONOMETRY 60%, TEMPERATURE BETWEEN 18 AND 25C. DO NOT USE A GAS FIRE OR NAKED FLAME HEAT SOURCE AS THE SOLVENT ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE.

1. Squeeze out contents of the tube of the Hypalon adhesive into a container and mix 1/3rd of the contents of the bottle of cure from the 3026 PVC adhesive. Apply a thin coat to the surface of the rubber pads and leave 24 hours or longer. The surface should look wet all over.
2. Inflate the dinghy until firm (slightly under the dinghy’s working pressure). Outline position for pads on the dinghy in pencil and mask area with masking tape (masking off has two advantages, restricting the solvent and the adhesive to the area to be bonded making for a clean neat job without oversmear)
3. Wipe over pads with solvent to degrease, leave for 30 minutes.
4. Prepare sufficient PVC adhesive, decant 1/3rd of 250ml 3026 adhesive and mix with half of the remaining cure. Apply solvent to cloth and vigorously wipe over the masked area on the dinghy only, do this a couple of times to create a tacky surface before applying a thin coat of mixed adhesive to both dinghy and the previously primed rubber pads. Leave for 30 minutes then apply a second thin coat to both surfaces, it is best to do one pad at a time, and leave for a couple of minutes before backing the pad with polythene. The pad can then be aligned without fear of a contact stick before you are ready. When ready gradually peel back the polythene pressing out any air bubbles to make an instant bond then consolidate the surfaces with the knife handle or block of wood by rubbing down hard working from the center out. Remove masking tape and rub off any visible adhesive. If this is left it will turn brown. Leave for 48 hours before use.

HYPALON

AB, ACHILLES, AQUAFLYTE, AVON, BALLISTIC, BEAUFORT, BRIG*, BWM, CALAGARI, CAMPARI, CARIBE, CHINOOK, COMPASS, DELTA, DOMINO, EUROCRAFT, FLATACRAFT, GOMMONAUTICA, GORDON, HENSHAWS, HUMBER, LOMAC, METZLER*, ML LIFEGUARD, NOVAJOLLY, NOVAMARINE, NOVURANIA, OSPREY, PICTON, RED BAY, REVENGER, RIBCRAFT, RIBTECH, RIB-X, RING, ROBCRAFT, SCANNER, SCORPION, SELVA, SEMPRIT, SELVA, STINGHER, TINKER, YAM RIBS, ZODIAC* (some pre 1968 models)

PVC

ARIMAR, BOMBARD, BRIG*, COMPASS II, EUROVINYL, EXCEL, HONDA, LODESTAR, MAXXON, METZLER*, NARWHAL, OMC EXPRESS, PLASTIMO, QUICKSILVER, RIBEYE*, SERIE, SEVYLOR, SUZUMAR, TOHATSU, TYPHOON, VALIANT* (some larger ribs are PU), WAVELINE, YAM, ZED, ZOOM, ZODIAC* (some pre 1968 leisure and their commercial range may be Hypalon)

POLYURETHANE

TORNADO, VALIANT*

MATERIALS NEEDED

• VALVE
• DOUBLER
• VALVE SPANNER
• P510 HYPALON SOLVENT
• 2990 2 PART ADHESIVE
• PAINT BRUSH
• LINT FREE CLOTH
• PVC MATERIAL
• MASKING TAPE
• POLYTHENE
• HAIR DRIER OR A HOT AIR GUN
• SAND PAPER/EMERY CLOTH

BEFORE YOU START ANY GLUEING PLEASE NOTE:-

YOUR WORKPLACE NEEDS TO BE WELL VENTILATED, WARM AND DRY. IF THE AIR IS HUMID DON'T TRY TO USE THE ADHESIVE AS IT WILL BLOOM. DO NOT USE A GAS FIRE OR NAKED FLAME HEAT SOURCE AS THE SOLVENT ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. DO NOT USE THE ADHESIVE IF IT HAS BEEN MIXED FOR MORE THAN 4 HOURS.

1. To take out your old valve..

• If the valve is glued on then heat the area with a hair drier or a hot air gun. This softens the adhesive and allows you to lift the edge and peel the valve back. The old adhesive will need to be sanded off.
• Check that the valve body will fit through the hole, if not make the hole bigger.
• If the valve is screwed together, unscrew and the back of the valve will be left inside the tube. To get this out make the hole bigger.

2. Prepare the outside of the tube.

• Using the masking tape, tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch on the material.
• Sand down the surface on the tube. The top surface needs to be sanded to a matt finish, the doubler is ready sanded.
• Wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the P510 solvent.
• Allow the solvent to flash off. If you apply the adhesive to soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.

3. Mix half of the adhesive as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, the surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.

4.Installing the valve

• Brush on a second coat on both surfaces.
• Lay a piece of polythene onto the tube adhesive.
• Put the cage of the valve into the tube and push to one side.
• Place the doubler into position making sure that the valve will sit squarely on the doubler, remove polythene.
• Work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. Then work the other side. Work from the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces.
• Take off tape and clean off any adhesive. The adhesive will turn brown if left on the surface.

If you are putting a valve into a RiB, assemble the valve with the doubler. Place into the hole and rub the fabric down. You will need to use your hand from the outside of the tube to support the fabric, so you can rub down hard enough

5. Leave to dry for at least six hours.

6. When dry pump up the chamber. Tighten the valve, it should be tightened to a max of 10lbs which is hand tight and just pinched up. Check for air leaks.

Materials needed

• P510 HYPALON SOLVENT
• 2990 2 PART ADHESIVE
• PAINT BRUSH (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
• LINT FREE CLOTH
• PVC MATERIAL
• MASKING TAPE
• POLYTHENE
• SAND PAPER/EMERY CLOTH
• KNIFE HANDLE OR ROUNDED PIECE OF HARDWOOD

BEFORE YOU START ANY GLUEING PLEASE NOTE

YOUR WORKPLACE NEEDS TO BE WELL VENTILATED, WARM AND DRY. IF THE AIR IS HUMID DON'T TRY TO USE THE ADHESIVE AS IT WILL BLOOM. DO NOT USE A GAS FIRE OR NAKED FLAME HEAT SOURCE AS THE SOLVENT ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. DO NOT USE THE ADHESIVE IF IT HAS BEEN MIXED FOR MORE THAN 4 HOURS.

IF THE DAMAGE TO YOUR TUBE IS MORE THAN 75MM IN ANY DIRECTION AN INSIDE PATCH NEEDS TO BE APPLIED. THE PROCEDURE IS THE SAME BUT IS MADE MORE DIFFICULT BECAUSE YOU ARE WORKING ON THE INSIDE OF THE TUBE.

INSIDE PATCH

1. Mark out and cut your material to size. This should be big enough to cover the damage plus 30mm on every side. Make sure that all the corners are rounded.
2. Sand down the surface on the patch and the inside of the tube. The top surface needs to be sanded to a matt finish, the back surface is sanded until the surface starts to break up and looks like suede. Wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the P510 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off. If you apply the adhesive to soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.
3. Mix half of the adhesive as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, the surface should look wet.
4. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.
5. Brush on a second coat on both surfaces. Leave to dry for 15 minutes. With the inside patch lay a piece of polythene onto the adhesive, so it can be rolled up and put through the hole. Place inside the tube and put into position, remove polythene. work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. Then work the other side. Work form the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Please note:- the adhesive is a contact type, as soon as it touches the other surface it will stick. Make sure that the patch is in the correct position before the surfaces come into contact.
6. Leave to dry for at least six hours.
7. When dry pump up the chamber and check for air leaks. The inside patch must be practically air tight.

OUTSIDE PATCH

1. Prepare the outside of the tube and your outside patch. Using the masking tape to tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch ion the material.
2. Sand down the surface on the patch and the inside of the tube. The top surface needs to be sanded to a matt finish, the back surface is sanded until the surface starts to break up and looks like suede. Wipe with the solvent. Mix the rest of the adhesive. Apply first coat of adhesive,leave for 30 minutes, apply second coat of adhesive. Leave for 15 minutes.
3. Put down the patch and rub down from the center out with your knife handle. Check that all the edges are stuck down. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Remove the tape and rub off any excess adhesive. If the adhesive is left on it will turn brown.
4. Leave to dry for at least six hours before putting pressure in the tube.

MATERIALS NEEDED

• 2903 PVC PRIMER AND CLEANER
• 3026 2 PART ADHESIVE
• PAINT BRUSH (cut down to 20-25mm bristle.)
• LINT FREE CLOTH
• PVC MATERIAL
• MASKING TAPE
• POLYTHENE
• KNIFE HANDLE OR ROUNDED PIECE OF HARDWOOD

BEFORE YOU START ANY GLUEING PLEASE NOTE

YOUR WORKPLACE NEEDS TO BE WELL VENTILATED, WARM AND DRY. IF THE AIR IS HUMID DON'T TRY TO USE THE ADHESIVE AS IT WILL BLOOM. DO NOT USE A GAS FIRE OR NAKED FLAME HEAT SOURCE AS THE SOLVENTS ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. DO NOT USE THE ADHESIVE IF IT HAS BEEN MIXED FOR MORE THAN 4 HOURS.

IF THE DAMAGE TO YOUR TUBE IS MORE THAN 15MM IN ANY DIRECTION AN INSIDE PATCH NEEDS TO BE APPLIED. THE PROCEDURE IS THE SAME BUT IS MADE MORE DIFFICULT BECAUSE YOU ARE WORKING ON THE INSIDE OF THE TUBE.

INSIDE PATCH

1. 1. Mark out and cut your material to size. This should be big enough to cover the damage plus 30mm on every side. Make sure that all the corners are rounded.
2. Using your cloth wipe the surface of the patch and the tube that is going to have the adhesive on with the 2903 solvent. Allow the solvent to flash off and wipe over again. The surface should become tacky. Allow to flash off. If you apply the adhesive to soon it will bloom (turn slightly white) the adhesive will need to be removed and new adhesive will have to be applied.
3. Mix half of the adhesive as directed on the tin. Brush onto the surface thinly, the surface should look wet. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 30 minutes.
4. Brush on a second coat on both surfaces. With the inside patch lay a piece of polythene onto the adhesive, so it can be rolled up and put through the hole. Place inside the tube and put into position, remove polythene. Work one side down with your knife handle, pressing hard. then work the other side. Work form the middle to the outside of the patch. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces.
   
   Please note:- the adhesive is a contact type, as soon as it touches the other surface it will stick. Make sure that the patch is in the correct position before the surfaces come into contact.
5. Leave to dry for at least six hours.
6. When dry, pump up the chamber and check for air leaks. The inside patch must be practically air tight.

OUTSIDE PATCH

1. Prepare the outside of the tube and your outside patch. Using the masking tape to tape around the patch leaving about a 3mm gap to allow for stretch in the material.
2. Wipe with the solvent. second wipe the solvent. Mix the rest of the adhesive. Apply first coat of adhesive, leave for 30 minutes, apply second coat of adhesive.
3. Put down the patch and rub down from the center out with your knife handle. Check that all the edges are stuck down. You must make sure that there is no air trapped between the surfaces. Remove the tape and rub off any excess adhesive. If the adhesive is left on it will turn brown.

If the adhesive has flashed off so it is not sticking. gently warm the area with a hair drier or a hot air gun and push down with your knife handle.